I had the opportunity to talk with an authority on the latest skincare science, Paula’s Choice Director of Skincare Research, Bryan Barron. Take a look at these 2020 beauty trends that will keep your skin glowing in the New Year and beyond!
2020 Beauty Trends
CBD (cannabidiol)Claims: Helps calm skin and reduce inflammation, reduces signs of aging, controls acne, and dry, eczema-prone skin; alleviates redness.What to look for:
- Opaque, airless or air-restrictive packaging, as CBD is prone to breaking down with ongoing exposure to air and light.
- “Cannabidiol” – this indicates pure CBD is present–hemp seed oil isn’t a good source of CBD, although it has other skin benefits.
- Content – concentration protocols haven’t been established for topical CBD, but reputable brands will tell you how much (in milligrams) you’re getting.
What the research says: Topical application of CBD to human skin shows it improves how skin cells form and move through each layer. It also reduces specific markers that are raised when skin is sensitized or its barrier is compromised, such as occurs with eczema. CBD has a distinct anti-inflammatory action on keratinocytes (skin cells) and the cells that make up our skin’s sebum (oil), which is believed to be how it helps control excess oil, acne, and generally improve skin health—anything you do to reduce inflammation within skin lets it look and act healthier!
Bakuchiol and RetinolClaims: Reduces fine lines and wrinkles, firms skin, improves skin tone and minimizes pore size, lightens discolorations, safe for sensitive skin. What to look for: Although natural ingredient bakuchiol is often recommended as an alternative to retinol, unless you’re sensitive to retinol, there’s no reason these two powerful ingredients can’t be used together.
- Find a product that contains at least 0.5% bakuchiol and at least 0.1% retinol (look for a higher amount of retinol if you have more advanced signs of aging such as deep wrinkles and stronger skin).
- Packaging matters: bakuchiol and retinol break down with daily exposure to light and air, so airtight or air-restrictive packaging is a must–no jars or clear containers!
- Contrary to claims, both ingredients can be sensitizing for some people. Look for a bakuchiol-retinol product without fragrance, including natural fragrant oils or extracts. Such ingredients are a primary trigger for skin irritation!
What the research says: Research shows that bakuchiol’s natural anti-inflammatory properties make retinol easier to tolerate and make retinol more effective by stabilizing its action on skin. It outperforms common retinol stabilizers like vitamin E because bakuchiol is more effective against a wider range of oxidizing molecules. Another bonus? Research has shown that the combination of retinol and bakuchiol is tenfold as effective as natural skin lightening ingredient arbutin. So, bakuchiol and retinol are brilliant for anyone at any age struggling with signs of sun damage, including discoloration.
Antioxidant Enzymes for DNA Repair of sun-damaged skin Claims: Visibly repairs DNA damage to skin before it results in signs of aging; helps protect DNA in skin from environmental damage; Boosts skin’s content of these naturally occurring enzymes, which becomes faulty with age and accumulated UV and blue light damage.What to Look for: The ingredients that will get the most attention in this area are superoxide dismutase, glutathione(known as the body’s “master antioxidant”), catalase, alpha lipoic acid, and supporting ingredients like mineral seleniumand amino acids such as glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid. All of these intercept damaging molecules before they can enter the skin cell’s nucleus and “reprogram” or disable the normal, healthy functioning of its DNA. Left unchecked, this DNA damage consistently sends faulty messages that lead to the gradual breakdown (and visible aging) of skin. And the research shows these ingredients also help repair some past damage!What the research says: New research shows that antioxidant enzymes like glutathione peroxidase and superoxide dismutase can penetrate to areas where cellular DNA was damaged from exposure to UV light. At these sites, they exert a repairing action that reduces inflammation and helps restore normal cell function to the extent possible. (Sadly, UV damage cannot be completely reversed). Research is also showing that bioavailable antioxidants like vitamin C and niacinamide offer further repair and at least partial protection from UV-induced inflammation that triggers skin cell damage.
What are some 2020 beauty trends you’ve been seeing? Let me know in a comment below!